I'm sorry to start with a scare, but truing wheels is said to require a high level of knowledge and skill among bicycle repairs.

Many cyclists probably feel terrified to even turn a nipple due to this preconception.

But is that really the case?

This time, I'd like to verify how much a "novice" can do, but even if you don't actually try it, just knowing about it will broaden your horizons as a cyclist.

▲ICAN Ultralight Carbon Spoke Wheels

1 Tools required for "mock" truing

If you want to do serious truing, a truing stand is indispensable. You'll need to spend a lot of money to buy one. Cheaper ones lack sufficient weight and rigidity, making them unstable.

However, here we're assuming simple truing, so the idea is to do it while the wheel is still on the bike.

The method is simple: turn the bicycle upside down, support the frame with the saddle and handlebars, and the wheel will be free to spin. This creates a makeshift truing stand.

However, you will need tools. The following two:

• Spoke wrench: A small tool. It's inexpensive, so choose a high-quality one.
• Spoke tension meter: Used to measure spoke tension. It costs around a few thousand yen, so it's not a waste for a cyclist to have one. One that can provide approximate numerical values is sufficient.

※ Actually, in some cases, one more simple tool is needed, but I will explain that later.

2 Knowledge required for truing a wheel

Now, let's get down to business.

① This is a top-down view of the wheel.

In reality, wheels on a bike have tires, so truing can be a little difficult to see. If you don't mind the trouble, it's best to do it with the tires removed.

The nipple can be seen through the rim hole, at the base of the spoke. It's near the center of the photo below.

② The basic principle is as follows:

• If the wheel wobbles to theright → tighten the spokes coming from the left side of the hub.

Loosening the spokes from the right side will have the same effect, but the basic principle is to "tighten." If the wheel wobbles to the left, tighten the spokes on the opposite side.

• If the wheel wobblesvertically → tighten the spokes in the area where the wheel protrudes vertically.

However, the trick is to tighten the right side, then similarly tighten the adjacent left side to balance both sides.

This adjustment may be difficult to see when the wheel is on the bike. However, vertical wobbles are not very common.

So, how do you "tighten" or "loosen" spokes?

"Turn the nipple!" That's half right, but which way do you turn it?

The correct answer is, looking at the hub from the rim side, turning the nipple to the right tightens it (= increases tension). It's the same as a normal screw, but be careful as it's easy to turn it the wrong way.

3 Specific steps for truing a wheel

Now that we understand the principle, let's actually try truing.

① Rotate the wheel and observe the wobble. If it's a rim brake bike, the brake pads will be a good reference point. For discs, the chainstay or front fork will serve as reference points. A wobble of one or two small bumps is relatively minor, and this is the case we're assuming. When you're new to this, it's easier to work by putting tape as a marker on the wobbly spots.

② Let's assume the rim is wobbling to the right. To tighten the closest left spoke at that spot, we finally turn the nipple. It's hard to know how much to turn it. Try turning it 1/4 turn. This much won't significantly unbalance it. As you get used to it, you can turn it more. Also, you might not only turn the nipple at one spot. The trick is to also turn the surrounding nipples a little less.

(You can also adjust by inserting a flathead screwdriver into the rim hole instead of using a spoke wrench, but a spoke wrench is easier for beginners to handle)

After turning, immediately rotate the wheel and check the state of the wobble. If the wobble is not completely removed, repeat the same process. (Gradually reduce how much you turn the nipple) You might even find it satisfying how smoothly the wobble disappears. This task relies on experience, but as long as you understand the principle and work, the wobble will eventually disappear.

The guideline for removing wobble is 1mm, but when you actually do it, you'll realize it's not that simple. As an amateur, compromising somewhere is the right path.

When you've finished, apply a little force to grasp the spokes two or three at a time, and let the entire wheel settle. This will make it less likely to go out of true later. After that, check the rotation again.

③ While small wobbles can be handled successfully this way, severe wobbles require experience. Basically, you perform the same steps as before, but the center (where the center of the tire tread aligns with the center of the hub) can become misaligned, and if this happens, tools such as a centering gauge become necessary. Unfortunately, this goes beyond the scope of this article.

④ What's concerning here is spoke tension. Just tightening the nipples can lead to an overall increase in tension. This is where the tension meter comes in handy. Measure the tension before adjustment. Do this for all spokes. You'll get a general central value and see that a normal error of ±3-5 is common.

You often see people judging tension by plucking spokes and listening to the pitch, but unless you have absolute pitch, it's safer for a novice to rely on a tension meter.

Ideally, you should check the tension each time you move a nipple to ensure it falls within the expected range. If it gets too high, adjust by loosening the opposite spoke instead of tightening.

Also, please be aware that with offset wheels, spoke tension can differ between the left and right sides.

⑤ For aero spokes, an extra step is required. The cross-sectional shape of aero spokes is not perfectly circular, but flattened. You could call it noodle-shaped. If you apply force with a spoke wrench, it will twist, without exception.

There's a tool called a "spoke holder (spoke key)" to correct this. You don't have to use it when turning the nipple; it's okay to use it afterwards. Insert it into the spoke near the nipple and turn it to easily remove the twist. Other tools might be able to substitute, but there's a risk of scratching the spoke, and since it costs around a thousand yen, I recommend having one ready. (A type like the one in the photo below, covered with thick resin over a steel structure, might be easier to use than a long Park Tool one.)

4 Finally

My explanation of "mock" truing seems to have gotten a bit carried away.

Did you think, "This is too difficult for me," or "Wow, it seems doable!"?

However, the truth is, once you grasp these key points, serious truing isn't that difficult. And what's more, the admirable act of building your own custom wheels isn't just a dream.

If you're grinning and thinking, "The world of bicycles is truly profound," you're already one of us. Let's master the secrets with ICAN! Ⓗ

【Reference image: ICAN wheel truing at shipment】

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