There comes a time when you want to change the handlebars on your road bike.

Your objectives change from when you were a beginner seeking stability to when you gradually get used to it, so you'll want to replace the handlebars themselves.

Additionally, there are unique factors in Japan regarding handlebars, so even if you use popular overseas parts, your satisfaction level might be low.

We will provide information on how to replace road bike handlebars, and more.

■ Handlebar Grip Positions

The drop handlebars on a road bike have many gripping points, which allows you to change your grip during long rides, helping to reduce fatigue.

• Flat

The flat section provides a comfortable ride, similar to a cross bike, allowing you to cycle in a relaxed manner.

Since you ride with an upright posture, it's easier to breathe, allowing for more oxygen intake, which is very effective during strenuous rides (like hill climbs).

• Brakets

This is probably the most commonly used position on a road bike.

Considering the wrist angle, it's the most ergonomic position for a comfortable grip.

It's also an easy position to shift gears and operate the brakes.

• Shoulder

Some people don't use this position.

It's often used for resting when you get tired of the forward-leaning posture.

• Drops (Lower Handlebars)

This is the position where you can exert the most force on drop handlebars.

It's used when in a full aggressive forward-leaning posture, making it the position with the least wind resistance and the highest potential for speed.

■ Choosing Drop Handlebars

When you're a beginner (e.g., riding a road bike for the first time), it's more stable to choose wider drop handlebars.

As you gradually become more conscious of wind resistance or find your preferred handlebar position, you might opt for slightly narrower ones.

Generally, you choose the handlebar width based on your shoulder width.

Handlebar widths include 380mm, 400mm, 420mm, 440mm, etc. (According to the author's research).

There's no need to be overly concerned about exactly where on your shoulder you measure. The comfortable width for gripping when in a forward-leaning posture with your hands on the drops will be the right handlebar width for you.

Since it varies depending on arm length and the degree of forward lean, handlebar width cannot be determined from height or weight.

It's important to check what dimension the handlebar measurement refers to.

• Handlebar Width: Center-to-Center

In the case of Japanese manufacturers, this often indicates the length from the center line of the handlebar pipe to the center line.

It's a dimension that is easy to pick up when drawing designs on blueprints.

Also, when determining handlebar length based on shoulder width, the pipe thickness doesn't cause it to be too narrow, so if you judge solely by the dimension, you'll get exactly what you expect.

• Handlebar Width: Outside-to-Outside

This is the measurement method used by European manufacturers and those who produce many products for the European market.

It measures the length between the outermost points of the handlebars.

When external dimensions are included in specifications, this outside-to-outside measurement is almost always used, making it a practical dimension.

However, it gives the impression of gripping slightly inward.

• Handlebar Clamp Diameter

Once the handlebar width is decided, the next step is to choose the clamp diameter.

There are two types of clamp diameters: 26.0mm and 31.8mm (according to the author's research).

It seems that carbon frames often use the thicker 31.8mm diameter.

Neither is inherently superior; you should choose one that fits your frame.

The diameter of the axis is basically only for the clamping part; the grip part has a changed diameter to be more comfortable for human hands.

What's important to note is that overseas manufacturers and Japanese manufacturers seem to have different requirements for handlebars.

Specifically, this concerns lights.

In Japan, attaching lights is legally mandatory, so many people fix lights to their handlebars.

Considering this, there are three items to attach to the handlebars: a bell, a cycle computer, and a light.

No matter how wide the handlebars are, if the diameter gradually narrows from a thick section to a thin section (called a taper), neither a bell, a cycle computer, nor a light can be fixed there.

This means that you won't be able to attach these three items without adding extension bars.

This adds unnecessary weight, so it's best to avoid it if possible.

Overseas, there seems to be a perception in some places that lights are not bicycle accessories, so the situation differs from Japan.

Cycle computers seem to be attached, but it's possible that people who attach bells and lights are a minority there.

(I researched quite a bit, but couldn't find detailed information.)

If you don't attach them, a handlebar with a wider tapered section is superior in design and also reduces stress concentration, making it an excellent handlebar.

However, since the fundamental ideas differ from Japan, it becomes necessary to attach extension bars, which can ultimately lead to increased weight.

Other

Additionally, there are different bends for handlebars, categorized by reach and drop, with various shapes such as shallow, anatomic, and anatomic shallow. You should imagine the shape that feels most comfortable to you and choose accordingly.

When replacing handlebars, it is recommended to first confirm that the new handlebar will be more comfortable to hold than your current one before making a selection.

External writer: Koichi Okuno